How would you feel about going back in time and experiencing the atmosphere of the Venetian Carnival, but not in Venice, but in the beautiful town of Corfu?
Doges, countesses, countesses, countesses, ladies of honor, harlequins, dominatrixes, courtiers, drummers make a “parade” during the days of Carnival in the cantounia of the island of Phaeacia! Elaborate masks, fancy costumes, feathered hats, velvet capes, satin gowns, attract the attention of passers-by and everyone else who happens to be there during these days. All this scenery blends in wonderfully with the architecture of the old town of Corfu, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
So what better way than to plan a three-day trip to the island, where you will see up close a unique carnival that you won't find anywhere else in Greece? But let's start from the beginning:
A little history
Corfu was under Venetian rule for 411 years (1386-1797) and this influence left its mark on the island, something that is still reflected today in the culture, architecture, gastronomy and of course the Carnival. The first references to the existence of the Venetian Carnival date back to the late 14th century.th century. In fact, it was such a historic event for the city that every year a high-ranking officer of the Venetian Navy took charge of its organization.
Masquerade balls, theatrical performances, parades, gambling casinos, horse races (giostres) were held for many weeks with multicolor and fun dominating! Houses were decorated with colorful flags, jokes were given and received, while established habits were card games, streamers and bathing with “pompetes” (watered-down colognes). The traditions and customs of Carnival in Corfu were particularly well-known and attracted visitors from various parts of Europe. Even the famous Giacomo Casanova experienced this whole scene on the island, as he mentions in his memoirs!
In the decorated Spianada Square, the disguised ones danced Qandrilies and Lansiedes, two European dances that the Corfiots soon incorporated into their repertoire. On the small balconies of the Corfiot houses, the “petegoletsa” could be heard, i.e. spicy gossip and satire about the neighbors, the family, the political life of the area, etc. in the Corfu dialect.
Today
Despite the fact that the Venetians left the island, the Venetian Carnival was loved and continued by both the Corfiots and the later conquerors. Today, this tradition is kept alive by various clubs active on the island, such as the Greek Women's High School of Corfu, the "Dia tis Afis" group, the "Venetians" of O,ti agapo, the Old Philharmonic, the Corfu Events Organization, the Corfu Satyrical Carnival Group, the Corfu Masquerade, the Municipality of Corfu, etc.
You will meet the disguised ones mainly in Liston and the cantounias of the old town, having their “perantzada”. On the morning of Sunday of Carnival, the Lyceum of Greek Women dances Qadrilias and Lansiedes at Pentofanaro (beginning of Liston) and then heads to the Palace of Saints Michael and George. We suggest you follow them there! If you even catch some of them walking around at night, you will be left speechless. The old lamps of the island with their yellowish light create a very cinematic setting!
All the events of the Venetian Carnival are announced on the website of the Municipality of Corfu, so before you go to the island, make sure to check out the program of events. It is truly worth watching and being enchanted by the multicolor, the "brio" and the multidimensional culture of the Corfiots.
What else to see and do
Since you will be on the island these days, don't miss out on seeing some of the island's attractions, which make Corfu a magnet for tourists all year round. So, put the following points in your GPS and join us on an atmospheric stroll through one of the most important fortified port cities in the Mediterranean.
Old town
The old town of Corfu is an open-air museum that enchants you at every corner! Full of 17th century buildingsth – 19th century and beautiful cantounias (narrow alleys) that exude a mysterious romanticism, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most beautiful neighborhood is that of Campiello with the Venetian mansions and the ornate wells.
At 18 Filellinon Street you will find the oldest building in the city, dating back to 1497. In Metropolitan church of Panagia Spilaiotissa, built in 1577, you will be impressed by the Renaissance elements, while in the square of Agios Spyridon, the Banknote Museum of the Ionian bank in an imposing building. A few meters below you will admire the magnificent church of Saint Spyridon in baroque style.
You won't want to miss going to Town Hall Square with the Catholic Metropolitan Church of Saints James and Christopher and a building ornament, the old Town Hall which from a Venetian nobles' club (Loggia di Nobili) was transformed in 1720 into a theater named San Giacomo. Also walk along the picturesque Nikiforou Theotoki Street and see the Venetian well at Vrachliotis Square.
You will definitely have a blast at Liston, the square Spianada, the gardens Grove and him People's Garden to end up with the imposing Palace of Saints Michael and George, which now houses the interesting Museum of Asian Art.
Crossing the Contra Fossa sea trench you enter the old Fortress and…on the 16ththe century! The impressive Venetian fortifications, which over the centuries were used by all the conquerors of the island, leave no one indifferent! Corfu was a strategic point for their commercial activities and they would not cede it to anyone. Thus, this fortress was built to be impregnable and in the end it was never conquered! Tip: You will need a lot of time to go around it and it is a good idea to bring a hat and water with you.
It is also worth seeing the buildings of Ionian Parliament, of Ionian Academy, which is the first Greek university of the modern era, but also the Maitland's Peristyle.
On the opposite side of the city, near the old port, are the Gate and the Barracks of Spilia and the Jewish Quarter. The remains of buildings still remain as they were from the Nazi air raids of 1943.
The need to protect the entire city of Corfu from the Ottomans forced the Venetians to build a second fortress, also known as New Fortress, which dominates the hill. Today it houses Navy facilities and hosts photography and painting exhibitions, music concerts, etc.
Cannon – Mouse Island
No visit to Corfu is complete without reaching the Kanoni area, to admire the view and watch the planes landing at Ioannis Kapodistrias Airport.
You can also go down the stairs and walk to the island where the picturesque monastery of Panagia ton Vlachernai is located.
Mon Repo
Nearby is the Palace of Mon Repos, which now houses the Paleopolis Museum. It is a historic building that hosted Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sissi) several times, and was the birthplace of Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, husband of Queen Elizabeth II of England.
Achilles
Sissy's need to overcome her illness brought her, at the urging of her doctors, to the mild climate of Corfu. At her own expense, one of the most famous villas in Europe was built, which served as a refuge for her. It was named Achilles after her beloved Homeric hero Achilles. The gardens, statues, frescoes and relics of the building have made it a top attraction on the island. Currently, only the gardens are accessible, as renovation work is underway inside.
What to try
Venetian cuisine married with local cuisine, leaving a gastronomic peculiarity that is still found today. Pastitsada, sofrito, pasticcio dolce, bianco fish – savoro – bourdeto, porpetes are some of the dishes you must try in Corfu. The traditional taverns to find these flavors are Nino, the Rex, the Marina's tavern, etc.
At the traditional pastry shop Buoyancy you will try fogatses but a special dessert Bolshevik, at his dairy Pericles Alexis the fresh vanilla cream, while in the Dripping Honey You will taste salty and sweet donuts. Don't leave the island without taking kumquat liqueur and jam with you.
Closing
The capital of the Ionian Islands is wonderful all year round! You don't have to wait for summer to indulge in its atmospheric charm and grandeur. If the crowds of Easter discourage you, take a trip there during the three-day Carnival to see, among other things, its unique Venetian carnival that will surely take you to other times.
